Four Seasons Carmelo, Carmelo, Uruguay

One of the newest Four Seasons resorts, this hotel nestles amongst the eucalyptus trees on the bank of the Rio Del Plato. This heartland of food production country hosts the laid back Urugaucho farmers, languidly tending their cows in the sun. With big vistas where the rolling green and yellow sunflower fields undulate under the big, clear blue sky, Carmelo is a largely colonial, and picturesque part of Uruguay.

Five kilometers outside the town, the Resort combines Indonesian style bungalows sporting outdoor daybeds and garden showers with South American hospitality. Complete with a world class golf course so challenging, new and unknown, it is doing time as an almost private practice range for a certain tiger. For the moment, Carmelo is a hidden gem in a soon to be discovered playground for the wealthy. Brazilian Portuguese mixes freely with the Spanish of the Argentinos, and a smattering of German from a couple venturing well off the South American ‘Gringo Trail’. English is unusual.

Drink mate by the pool, or claim a riverside day bed and fill days with kayaking and swimming. The clarity of the water, and abundance of undisturbed wildlife on the river is enchanting. Book into the day spa, play golf and take a tour by jet-ski up the tributary. In the evening, ride a horse at sunset up to the Narbona Hacienda to taste locally produced cheese and wine, eaten with sweet tasty tomatoes and cured beef. If you like this kind of thing, and want to holiday with an altogether different crowd, this quirky corner of South America blends luxury, fine food and relaxation in native settings. Watch for the goannas on the walkways, and enjoy a vision of Uruguay. A forgotten country magnificent with the dusty glory of her spent 1950s prosperity. Days still pass slowly here, and the night sky is dark and full of dreams.

To get there: Fly to Buenos Aires, then take a 45 minute flight to Carmelo. Alternatively, schedule a road trip. Get the burquebus ferry from B.A to Montevideo, and drive up to Carmelo, stopping for a stroll around Colonia, a favourite daytrip for Argentinos.