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Revision 677
El Questro
- Australia/Kimberley Range
It would be, wouldn’t it? The first thing we saw after stepping out of the Toyota Landcruiser at El Questro was a crocodile…
Palacio Azul
- Cuba, Cienfuegos
The conversion of the building into a hotel is a typically and eccentrically Cuban affair
Hotel Santa Isabel
- Cuba, Havana
Undoubtedly one of the best places to stay in Havana Viejo is a first floor suite in the Santa Isabel – formerly the Count of Santovenia’s palace
Strolling through Cuba's Greatest Gardens
- Cuba/Jardines de la Reina
The gardens Christopher Columbus saved for the Queen, a large uninhabited archipelago, may seem empty at first, but one only need to look deeper to find what he must have seen
A Place of Peace in a Warrior Goddess's Kingdom
- India/Nimaj
Durga, a Hindu warrior goddess, remains as relevant to Rajasthan, a state in India with a violent history, as ever. But this low-key tent camp built on a dam wall offers a sweet refuge
Varanasi, City of Light
- India/Varanasi
It's a contradiction that's not easy for the first time visitor to swallow: that one of the most patently polluted places on earth is a place where people come to be purified
Islands in the Clouds
- Indonesia/Irian Jaya
Isabella Tree recounts her arrival amongst the Highlanders of Irian Jaya - a people whose culture is fast disappearing - with her Papua New Guinean friend, Akunai
A Dip into Kyoto’s Floating World
- Japan/Kyoto
Her face was chalk white – the image of every Japanese tourist poster; her hair lacquered into glossy black wings, transfixed with ornaments like some exotic cocktail...
A Whole View of Africa from the Loo
- Kenya/Tana Delta Camp
As mad as it may seem to build an entire resort atop a 100ft sand dune, that lunacy fits right in with the lunacy of its surroundings
Sliced Iguana: Travels in Mexico (extract)
- Mexico/general
In Juchitan, a thriving market town on the Pacific Coast, Isabella Tree samples a traditional Zapotec 'cleansing' at the hands of one of the town's powerful matriarchs
Hot Nights in Juchitan
- Mexico/Tehuantepec/Juchitan
In the hazy glow of a Pacific afternoon two teams of transvestites are engaged in their weekly basketball match. They’re wearing micro-skirts and crop-tops and shrieking like schoolgirls.
Souks and the Single Girl
- Morocco/Marrakech
The hammam was not how I imagined. I had pictured something bustling and sociable, a traditional courtyard thronged with women in towels like a scene from Steaming
Kathmandu: Shiva's Night Out
- Nepal/Kathmandu
Smoking hashish is an obligatory function of the sadhu, or holy man - part of his ‘darshan’, his divine gift of communication with god; and for the three days of Shivaratri the Nepalese authorities who usually subscribe to the school of ‘zero tolerance’, turn a blind eye to all the bleary shenanigans going on down at the ancient golden temple of Pashupatinath.
Kathmandu – Valley of the Gods
- Nepal/Kathmandu
There are more gods than people here, so the saying goes, with Buddhas and bodhisattvas, tantric gods and mother goddesses at every turn.
Skull Drums and Thigh Bone Trumpets
- Nepal/Kathmandu
This almost jocund familiarity with death is one of the first challenges a westerner faces when encountering Tibetan Buddhism. “Your thigh-bones would make marvellous trumpets”, he’d exclaimed, “Would you like to leave them to our monastery?”
Culture Shock
- Papua New Guinea/Trobriand Islands
In the Trobriand Islands the annual yam festival is more than just ordinary. Nick burst out laughing when I told him I was heading for the Trobriand Islands. 'I hope you know how to bite off a man’s eyebrows,' he said.
Café life in Krakow
- Poland/Krakow
The enduring legacy of Krakow’s extraordinary capacity for survival, its tradition of stoical underground resistance and socio-political camaraderie, is a burgeoning café culture of steamy windows and smoke-filled cellars. This is a city where people still talk for hours; where the din of conversation rises exuberantly above the sound of musak and the rustle of newspapers.
The Imperial Herbal Restaurant
- Southeast Asia/Singapore
The Imperial Herbal Restaurant in Singapore is definitely not the place to go on a first date. Before you’ve had time to shake out your napkin or sink an aperitif
In the Land of Raja
- Sri Lanka/Dambulla
With a curious interest in Sri Lanka’s elephant fascination, Isabella Tree begins to understand the respect paid to them, and really fathom why
Cowboy Kids: Ski-School in Jackson Hole
- USA/Wyoming
It’s precisely this wild west, no-holds-barred, live-or-die frontier attitude that resonates so perfectly with children
Dogsledding on the Continental Divide
- USA/Wyoming
We rendez-voused at the trailhead, an hour’s drive from Jackson and a few miles beyond the legendary Togwotee Pass. Dogsleds are designed for equilibrists. They take for granted an almost superhuman sense of balance
